‘In every season the rooms are full of painters. Here summer seems cooler than winter [...] We crawl along the ground on our stomachs, armed with bread, ham, fruits and wine, looking more bizarre than the grotesques’. These words, written by an anonymous Lombard artist in Rome in 1496, are from the earliest printed account of one of the most important archaeological discoveries of the Renaissance, one that would have an impact on Western art for centuries.